There
are several gateways through which to enter the magic that is
Zululand - by road from the north, south or west; by air and
even by sea - but for our purposes, we commence the journey
by road from the south. This connects us with one end of a coastal
route - a scenic drive that runs all the way to Kosi Bay in
the north, just below the Mozambique border and links all of
Zululand's world renowned wildlife attractions.
Less than an hour's drive from Durban on the N 2 we reach MANDINI
and cross the wide, lazy Tugela River (the startling one), that
serves as the southern boundary of Zululand. |
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1. Historical Highlights |
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The banks
of the TUGELA are our first port of call for military memories.
British hilltop fortifications, built in 1878, now comprise
the national monument of Fort Pearson while the Ultimatum
Tree, under which King Cetshwayo's delegation was presented
with an ultimatum to submit to British rule, is on the south
bank.
The N2
travels roughly parallel to the coast, with tantalising glimpses
of the ocean to the east, and the landscape beginning to dip
and swell as the first of Zululand's rolling hills come into
view. The road forks in the vicinity of tongue-twisting GINGINDLOVU.
In Zulu it means swallower of the elephant During the Anglo-Zulu
War the British soldiers, unable to get their tongues around
the Zulu pronunciation, dubbed the place Gin Gin I love you.
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Some 18
km further is our first coastal stop, the welcoming town of
MTUNZINI, where tranquil dune forests fringe sun-drenched
beaches. With a Zulu name that means a place in the shade,
this relaxed resort is a fisherman's paradise. Located in
a naturally beautiful and unspoilt setting of dune forest,
coastal wetland, golden beaches and tidal lagoon, it has a
proud commitment to eco-tourism.
Mtunzini
offers a host of outdoor and sporting activities, from ski-boating
and fishing to birding and bush trails. Permission can also
be obtained from the local authority to take four-wheel drive
vehicles along a 40 km stretch of beach.
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2.
Monumental Trees |
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The town
boasts a spectacular natural attraction in the form of a national
monument of giant 20 m high raphia palms, which in turn attract
the rare palmnut vulture.
The Umlalazi
Nature Reserve, managed by the l(KwaZulu-Natal Nature Conservation
Service, offers 1 000 ha of protected coastal forest around
the banks of the Umlalazi lagoon. Located 1,5 km east of Mtunzini,
the
reserve is popular with anglers, hikers, birders, boaters
and sun-seekers.
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Some
of the country's finest mangrove swamps are located here.
Plan your visit to coincide with the spectacular annual butterfly
migration between July and September, when the countryside
becomes a riot of fluttering colour.
Situated some 30 km north of Mtunzini, in the heart of sugar
cane country, is EMPANGENI. Established in 1851 as a Norwegian
mission, it boasts modern amenities and serves the surrounding
sugar, timber~ cotton and cattle farming communities.
The Empangeni Museum, occupying the Old Town Hall in Turnbull
Street, provides a fascinating insight into Zulu culture and
sugar pioneering days, as well as presenting the work of notable
South African artists. Local history landmarks include several
Zulu imizi (homesteads and military strongholds of Zulu royalty)
and Inkanyezi, the site of an early American mission station.
The centre of the Tuzi Gazi Coast, RICHARDS BAY, is no more
than 20 km to the east of Empangeni(see feature on page 8).
A few minutes' drive north of Empangeni on the N2 brings us
to the Enseleni Nature Reserve. A small, picturesque reserve
that winds along the Nseleni River its game park, swamp trail
and aquatic birds tempt many
a nature-lover to pause here in their journey.
Approximately 40 km from Enseleni, the N2 takes us across
the swampy plain of the Umfolozi Flats - and it's time to
pay our respects to another of Zululand's great rivers, the
Umfolozi (the river of fibres)
|
Join
us On a Journey of Discovery |
| Visit
the interesting
towns, discover the natural attractions and experience the traditional
culture and unmatched wildlife that Zululand has to offer. |
|
3. THE RICHES OF RICHARDS BAY |
Richards
Bay was for many years a quiet ytstnng village. Then, just over
20 years ago, everything changed. The natural harbour at the
mouth th of the Mhlatuzi River was transformed into a deep water
port and, since its official opening in 1976, life e at Richards
Bay has never looked back. With the port now handling a quarter
of the country's seaborne cargo, Richa rds Bay~ is one of the
fastest developing industrial centres in South Africa.
Yet there is another side to this forward-thinking town: it
is a popular holiday destination in which industry, tourism
and nature are managed so that they not only coexist, but thrive.
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With
a climate that feels as though it's summer all year round, there
is plenty of fun to be had. Industrial tourism is an eye-opener
for visitors, while outdoors there are a host of sporting and
recreational opportunities. Swimming and surfing are safe and
inviting at the Alkant~strand and Newark beaches, while the
Tuzi Gazi Waterfront, Naval Island and Pelican Island are a
delight for anglers, jet-skiers, power-boaters, canoeists and
sailing enthusiasts.
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Much
of the original wetland habitat is still intact, so animal
and birdlife around Richards Bay can be enjoyed in their natural
environment. Dolphin and whale-watching is possible from the
beach, 4x4 vehicles can travel as far north as Mapelane along
the shore and there are crocodile and hippo viewing opportunities.
Modern shops, accommodation to suit evety pocket, restaurants,
cinemas and nightclubs add to the picture of this progressive
centre, which is also served by a busy airport and oceangoing
passenger liners.
Located at the heart of the Tuzi Gazi coastal route - named
from two rivers that flow into the sea at Richards Bay, the
Mzingazi and Mhlatuzi - the tow is truly an international
gateway to the tourism riches of Zululand and Maputaland.
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4. World Famous Game Reserves |
Umfolozi
is also the name of one of South Africa's world famous game
reserves. Recently amalgamated with its neighbour, Hluhluwe
Game Reserve, it now forms part of the massive Hluhluwe-Umfolozi
Park. It can be reached via the R618, which turns off to the
left, shortly after signposts that beckon us to the coast via
MTUBATUBA
Surrounded by sugar cane plantations on the fertile alluvial
plain of the Umfolozi River, Mtubatuba is 2 km from the N2 on
the R618. It is a thriving regional centre, offering an appealing
array of guest lodges and country houses. For the visitor wanting
to sample as many wildlife and outdoor attractions as possible
in a short space of time, Mtubatuba serves very conveniently
as a pivotal point between the beach and the bush.
Every alternate June it hosts Africa's largest annual game auction,
which attracts international buyers. |
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5. Land of Lakes and Golden Dunes |
| Heading
east from Mtubatuba towards the village of ST LUCIA, it's impossible
to miss the shadowy, mountainous ridge ahead. Drive closer and
you begin to make out its detail: forested sand-dunes, the highest
of their kind in the world. They provide a grand backdrop to
an even more spectacular mosaic of lakes, freshwater pans, swamp
forest, rivers, grasslands and beach. This is your introduction
to the Greater St. Lucia Wetland Park, one of South Africa's
ecological treasures (see feature on page 26). An untamed outdoor
paradise that invites you to commune with nature, the Park has
several access points -and St. Lucia village, at its southern
tip, is one of them. |
Back
on the N2 from Mtubatuba, the road arrows north through a landscape
punctuated by Zulu homesteads, wandering cattle, spikey sisal
plants and fever trees with luminous yellow stems.
The next town is HLUHLUWE. A short distance east of the national
road, it is a user-friendly jump off point for the surrounding
game reserves as well as the northern resorts of Lake St. Lucia
and the fishing and diving mecca of SODWANA BAY.
The Memorial Gate entrance to the Hluhluwe-Umfolozi Park is
located on the western side of the N2, about 17 km from Hluhluwe
village. A superb wildlife haven with breathtaking scenery,
the Park has over 150 km of good gravel roads that provide self-drive
access to most of its terrain. This is Africa, and visitors
may get out of their cars only in the rest camps and designated
viewing sites. |
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6. Magnificent Maputaland |
| Radiating
north and east of Hluhluwe is the vast wilderness area of MAPUTULAND,
a giant 9 000 square kilometer nature area of great diversity.
Maputaland has an astonishing 21 ecosystems -supporting prolific
bird, animal and plant life. With the Greater St. Lucia Wetland
Park at its southern tip, Maputaland incorporates several game
and marine reserves, freshwater lakes and pans, mountains and
sand forest. The most northerly protected area of Maputaland
is the unspoiled estuarine system of Kosi Bay Nature Reserve. |
|
This is an unforgettable eco-tourism experience, where a number
of bush lodges and safari camps cater for visitors wanting a
unique wilderness getaway.
One of the busier Maputaland attractions is Sodwana Bay National
Park. As the crow flies, Sodwana is the nearest beach resort
to Johannesburg, and the caravans, ski-boat towing 4X4 vehicles
and diving parties that congregate there are testimony to its
popularity. It also boasts some of the best coral reefs in the
world.
Tent and caravan sites, as well as holiday chalets, are spread
through many hectares of coastal forest, and for an outdoor
holiday that offers a compelling mix of beach and bush, SODWANA
is the prime choice.
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7. The Mystery of Mkuze |
| If
we draw an east-west line on the map from Sodwana Bay inland,
we'd find ourselves connecting with an area known as MKUZE.
It refers to the small trade and transport centre of Mkuze village.
It's also the name of one of the Zululand waterways that meanders'
across the southern expanse of Maputaland, eventually feeding
into the St. Lucia wetlands. The Mkuze River cuts through the
Ubombo Mountains before serving as a boundary for Zululand's
famous Mkuzi Game Reserve, much favoured by birders. |
|
From
the village of Mkuze, it's possible to ponder the mystery and
legend surrounding the jagged 530 m heights of Ghost Mountain.
With its dramatic silhouette, it is not difficult to understand
why the mountain is said to be haunted.
Putting our feet back on the ground, we travel north along the
ridge of the Ubombo mountains to JOZINI.
The imposing Ubombo Mountains - its name changes to Lebombo
once we cross the Pongola River - are part of a 600 km range
that extends north to the Limpopo valley.
Some 20 km from the turnoff to Mkuze we reach the southern banks
of the massive Lake Jozini (Pongolapoort Dam). Turning right
off the N2 and heading northeast finds us spiraling up the Ubombo
heights. With spectacular views over the water, this dramatic
expanse of water straddles the Pongola River as it flows between
the Ubombo and Lebombo Mountains.
It teems with tiger fish, crocodiles and hippos, and understandably
bush lodges and fishing camps are springing up on its shores.
Now, however, the adventurous among us head towards the coast,
traveling the gravel road east from Jozini to LAKE SIBAYA. Surrounded
by stately forests the unspoiled delights of the lake can be
enjoyed from a small camp.
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8. Subtropical Spell |
On
the other side of the forested dunes, separating the lake from
the sea, is the Maputaland Marine Reserve. With endless
swathes of clean, empty sand and dazzling turquoise sea, the
reserve is a breeding ground for the endangered loggerhead turtle.
A handful of exclusive and eco-friendly bush camps are established
at points along the coastal reserve, and access to them is preferably
by four-wheel drive vehicle.
Continue north along the beach to arrive at the mouth of KOSI
BAY. This is a chain of four lakes situated in the Kosi Bay
Nature Reserve. Famous for their traditional fish kraals (or
traps), the lakes are popular with anglers, hikers, birders,
campers and snorkel and scuba divers.
Getting to Kosi Bay involves a steady drive northeast from Lake
Jozini across the Pongola floodplain. As you travel north, you
will see ala palms being tapped for their sap, which makes a
potent local wine! The road to Kosi Bay also provides access
to the two northernmost conservation areas in Maputaland: the
atmospheric Ndumu Game Reserve and the nearby Tembe Elephant
Park |
|
9. The Kingfisher Route |
We
leave the treasures of Maputaland to head inland on the N2,
rejoining it as it skirts the southern edge of Lake Jozini.
This stretch of the national road has been
dubbed the Kingfisher Route in recognition of the several beautiful
species of this colourful indigenous bird found in the region.
Swinging close to the Swaziland border we travel through a thriving
farming community that has made the most of the fertile valley
of the Pongola River. The local business and tourism centre
is the town of PONGOLA, with its small airport, hotel, guest
houses, shops and museum. Call in at the Arts & Crafts Info
Centre for information on the kingfisher Route, and enjoy the
tea-garden, curio shop and community craft stalls at the same
time. Tours of the local sugar mill, cotton gin and citrus estates
can be arranged. The area is rich in Anglo, Zulu and Boer history
and includes the first land in Africa to be proclaimed a game
reserve.
Heading south from Pongola we reach the MAGUDU area, a favourite
with hunters, and many private game farms, hunting lodges and
photographic safaris operate here. The sacred mountain of Magudu
is the site of a historical village that was once home to Magudu,
the Zulu rain queen.
Continuing inland, we set our sights on the north-western corner
of Zululand via Louwsburg.
Shortly before the village of LOUWSBURG is the turn-off to the
magnificent Ithala Game Reserve. One of the youngest of the
formal wildlife parks, it offers almost 30 000 hectares of prime
game viewing and bird-watching.
A majestic expanse of indigenous mountain forest is located
south of Jthala. A gravel road winds its way into this hidden
heart of Zulu land, where we find the Ngome Forest and, within
it, the Ntendeka Wilderness Area, considered by many to be South
Africa's most beautiful wilderness area.
With its breathtaking waterfalls, lush forest and rolling grasslands,
it is a remote but rewarding adventure for nature lovers. |
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10. Tea Estates |
East
of the forest, the hillsides are covered with a different type
of green - that of tea plantations! The Sapekoe Tea Estates
welcome visitors to tour the estate.
Dipping back into history, the town of NONGOMA - south-east
of Ntendeka - was established in 1887. Once the home of Zwide,
an early Zulu king, it is today a bustling trading centre.
VRYHEID (it means freedom in Afrikaans) is the largest
town in the north west. A major regional centre, it has remained
a welcoming and characterful town that is as rich with history
as modern infrastructure.
Vryheid began life as the centre of a short-lived independent
Boer Republic in the 1880s, and has an entire block of buildings
declared national monuments - three of which a~e now attractive
and interesting museums.
Vryheid is on The Battlefields Route and there are a number
of significant battle sites in the immediate vicinity. It also
offers much in the way of outdoor activities, including walking,
birding, watersport, fishing, riding and hang-gliding.
PAULPIETERSBURG is situated some 50 km north of Vryheid,
and is listed in the Guiness Book of Records as "the healthiest
town in South Africa". Spread around the base of the Dumbe
Mountain, the town is the first Zululand stop on The Rainbow
Route - the name given to a scenic and convenient tourism initiative
linking inland South Africa with the Zululand coast.
The district is justifiably proud of the quality of its water
with two spring-water bottling plants in the area, and therapeutic
sulphur springs at nearby spa resorts.
Paulpietersburg played its part in the military shaping of the
region. The peace treaty that ended the Anglo-Boer War was signed
at the nearby Egode River, while the Anglo-Zulu War site of
Ntombe is 30 km away.
Close to that battlefield is LÜNEBURG one of the strong
pillars of German culture in l(KwaZulu-Natal
Founded by Lutheran missionaries and colonists in 1860, the
area attracted many German settlers and farmers during the 19th
century and their descendants continue to make a rich contribution
to the cultural tapestry of Zululand.
Let's take The Rainbow Route back south, passing through Vryheid,
as we aim for Ulundi (see feature below) at the centre of Zululand. |
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11. Ulundi -. The High Place |
|
Heading
Into the heart of Zululand we find the historic Zulu capital
of ULUNDI. Set among dramatic hills and the rugged valleys
of The White Mfolozi River, the town straddles the R66 between
Nongama and MeImoth. It boasts a modern airport and is a gateway
to many of the game reserves in the region.
Ulundi is the legislative capital of KwaZulu-Natal The noble
Assembly Building is decorated with spectacular hand-crafted
tapestries depicting historic events In the
growth of the Zulu nation.
History is also woven into the surrounding landscape. Over
a hundred years ago, King Cetshwayo selected 'uluNdi' or 'Ondini'
- which means the high place - as the site of his capital,
but the entire complex was destroyed by British forces after
the Battle of Ulundi. Reconstruction of the original capital
has been meticulously carried out by the KwaZulu Monuments
Council, together with the creation of a cultural centre and
museum, as well as the Ondini Historic Reserve.
About
10 km south of Ulundi is Gqokli Hill, site of l(ing Shaka's
first military success, and Fort Nolela, the British camp
from which Ulundi was attacked in 1879.
Heading south-west from Ulundi connects us with the R34 and
the Rainbow Route link between Vryheid and Melmoth. Turning
right, we drive into more 19th century history. South of this
road is the Mkhumbane valley where King Dingane resided. He
named
|
|
Valley
of the Kings |
Slightly
north is the grave of Voortrekker leader Piet Retief and his
followers, killed at King Dingane's command in January 1838.
Nearby is eMakhosini (Valley of the Kings).
Here many royal Zulu ancestors lived and are buried. Dinizulu,
is buried in the Nobamba site while Siklibheni is the site of
the grave of Senzangakhona, who fathered three Zulu kings: Shaka,
Dingane and Mpande.
Another stop on both the Rainbow Route and Battlefields Route
is BABANANGO, a short distance as the crow flies from
the historic sites we've just visited. A popular base for tours
to surrounding military sites and well known Isandlwana and
Rorke's Drift battlefields, Babanango village has a characterful
watering-hole and accommodation to suit all needs. Scenic highlands
make for great birding, and the area is known for 4x4 trails
as well as hiking, game viewing and Zulu cultural experience
outings.
Some 30 km south of Ulundi is MELMOTH, a feeder town
for the capital and agricultural and business centre. The town
stands 800 m above sea level in a lush green mist belt that
boasts the cleanest air in the country.
Bushveld horse trails, hiking and birding add to the attraction
of being on the Battlefields Route and having Zululand's game
reserves close by.
We're on the final leg of our circular journey around Zululand,
and this carries us through the misty heights of an escarpment
covered with lush, dense vegetation.
Wattle and sugar plantations give way to grassland then bushveld
and the mountainous terrain of the Nkwaleni valley, where King
Shaka built his second capital, kwaBu lawayo (the place of killing).
Our final stop is ESHO~VV€. Situated at a cool 500
m above sea level, it retains much indigenous rain forest within
its boundaries, including the Dlinza Forest nature reserve.
Equally rich in history, the place of the wind in the trees
was once 4he site of a Norwegian mission which became a fort
during the Anglo-Zulu War. Today the fort is a national monument,
as is Fort Nongqayi, which is now the Zululand Historical Museum.
Continuing south-east on the R66 reconnects us with the N2,
which is where our magical journey began. |
12. SAVAGE SPLENDOR |
Zululand
is big game country - birthplace of African game conservation.
Some of the continent's longest established wildlife reserves
are situated among the rolling hills and river valleys, the
wetlands and sand forests of Zululand - an area that can justifiably
be proud of its efforts in conserving our natural heritage.
Lion, elephant, rhino, buffalo, leopard and hippo are among
the many great beasts that attract hundreds of thousands of
visitors every year to Zululand game reserves.
Spend at least one or two nights in the wild heart of Zululand.
There are luxury lodges - comparable to the best in Africa -
bush camps and log cabins, tree houses, thatched huts and tented
campsites. For even more innovative overnight stays, there are
floating lodges, rock chalets and traditional Zulu huts. And
all of this is readily available along a good network of roads
no more than a few hours drive from Johannesburg or Durban.
Zululand contains the most diverse concentration of wildlife
sanctuaries in South Africa.
The large reserves and parks tend to be official conservation
areas managed by the KwaZulu-Natal
Nature Conservation Service, but there are numerous smaller
privately-operated reserves and bush retreats that offer out-of-Africa
attractions. |
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13. FIND THE BIG FIVE |
One
of the largest game parks in South Africa, and certainly the
most famous of the Zululand reserves, the Hluhluwe-Umfolozi
Park occupies 96 000 scenic hectares of rugged hills, river
valley, woodland and savannah.
The hilly bushveld of the Hluhluwe section was once the hunting
ground of Zulu royalty. There is a modern hutted camp at Hilltop,
with a restaurant, petrol station, curio shop and self-catering
facilities. The Mpila camp in the Umfolozi section, offers rustic
self-catering facilities. There are several lodges, bush camps
and bush lodges in both sections.
You are not required to overnight in the Park, and there is
a wide range of accommodation less than a hour's drive away.
An unforgettable bush experience is a three-day wilderness trail
in Umfolozi. Walk with the animals - black and white rhino,
elephant, lion, leopard, cheetah, wild dog, buffalo, hippo,
giraffe, zebra, warthog and a wide range of antelope. |
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14. ECO-DIVERSITY |
Phinda
Resource Reserve is situated in an area to the north of Lake
St Lucia. Seven different eco-systems have been identified within
this 17 000 hectare reserve that includes sand forest, mountain
range, wetlands and coastal plain, supporting a vast range of
animal, bird and plant life.
Phinda offers accommodation in four luxury lodges, each designed
to blend into the environment. Daily activities include tracking
lion, leopard, cheetah, rhino or elephant in a 4x4 vehicle with
a ranger as a guide, night drives, bush walks, turtle viewing
and game viewing by boat. Bordering Phinda is another luxury
lodge, Zulu-Nyala, which offers unique game viewing from horseback.
Mkuzi Game Reserve to the east of the Lebombo mountains is a
must for the wildlife purist. There is abundant game in this
reserve, including black and white rhino, giraffe, wildebeest,
hippo, zebra, warthog, large numbers of nyala and impala as
well as elephant. The reserve is also a particular favourite
for bird viewing, with a birdlist that exceeds 400. |
|
15. FASCINATING FAUNA |
Discover
yet another phase of your Zululand game experience in the form
of Ithala Game Reserve. Set among the northern hills and valleys
of Zululand, about 70 km east of Vryheid, Ithala's rolling grasslands
rise from 400 to 1400 metres above sea level and includes ancient
rock formations.
Some 80 species of mammals have been identified, among which
are elephant, rhino, leopard, cheetah, giraffe and hyena. Ithala
is also the habitat of animals not found in other Zululand game
reserves, including eland, tsessebe and red hartebeest. |
|
16. UNIQUE & MEMORABLE |
Two
unique reserves are found in the far north eastern corner of
Zululand. The beautiful Ndumu Game Reserve has an abundance
of the smaller mammals, but is better known for its prolific
birdlife, including many migratory species at the southern limit
of their range. A walk through Ndumu's atmospheric riverine
forest is a truly memorable experience.
Tembe Elephant Park was proclaimed in 1989, both to preserve
the remnants of the Maputaland elephant population and to protect
the local people. Many of the Tembe elephants still carry scars
from encounters with Mozambique poachers.
Both reserves offer accommodation, although access to the dense
Tembe sandveld is by 4x4 vehicle only. |
|
17. SMALL IS BEAUTIFUL |
There
is a breathtaking diversity among the animal, bird and plant
life in Zululand. So for the nature-lover who seeks a less dramatic
but equally enchanting outdoor experience, it's possible to
walk and hike in complete safety in some of the smaller reserves.
This is the time to capture those small moments of beauty: a
delicate wild orchid in full bloom, a dung beetle busily at
work,
a flock of trumpet hornbills chorusing from the forest canopy
All the game and nature reserves of Zululand, big and small,
offer soul-stirring and unforgettable
experiences of the wild. So whatever your choice of destination,
there is something for everyone in this
African paradise. |
|
18. SAVING THE RHINO |
The~
Hluhluwe and Umfoloki reserves were founded in 1895 and are
the oldest such sanctuaries in~. Africa. It was here that the
world acclaimed Operation Rhino was introduced in the 1960's.
The reserves, then the final bastions of the white rhino in
Africa, successfully captured and translocated these pre-historic
creatures to, sanctuaries in South Africa and other parts of
the world. The result of this opera4çñ was that
the population of the white rhino in South Africa grew from
around 500 in 1960 to its current carrying capacity of nearly
6000.
Hluhluwe-Umfolozi, now a single game park, has today focused
its efforts on saving the endangered black rhino, whose numbers
in Africa have dwindled ~ from 14 000 to a mere 2 550 over the
past ten year~. At least a fifth of the world population of
black and ~ white rhino are found in the park. |
|
19. WATER WONDERLAND |
From
pristine beaches, freshwater lakes and lagoons to wetlands and
coral reefs, this unique combination of waters adds a stunningly
scenic and inviting dimension to your Zululand experience.
If you want action, there are the thrills of deep water game-fishing
... the enchantment of diving the southernmost coral reefs in
the world crocodile and hippo-spotting from the safety of a
touring boat. If it's tranquillity you're after, settle on the
shores of a lake frosted with pelicans walk the dazzling sands
of unspoilt beaches ... or cool off in surf so clean it sparkles. |
|
20. CHARMS OF THE COAST |
The
Zululand coast is a subtropical paradise of sweeping beaches,
grand estuaries, vivid coral reefs and high coastal dunes fringed
with evergreen forest. Embroidered by the surf of the Indian
Ocean from the Tugela River in the south to just beyond the
Kosi Bay Estuary in the north, this is an exquisite beach playground.
The dunes are among the highest in the world, the beaches are
sundrenched and the waters warmed by the Mozambique current
that flows south from the equator. The largest freshwater in
South Africa - Lake
Sibaya - between Kosi Bay and Sodwana Bay, is home to the hippo
and the haunting cry of the fish eagle. There are comfortable
thatched cabins, hides and trails available to the eco-tourist.
The most accessible beaches are found at Mtunzini, St. Lucia
and Richards Bay. Sand and forested dunes stretch for mile upon
endless mile at Mtunzini and St. Lucia, while the beaches at
Richards Bay are popular for swimming and surfing.
Further north, the beautiful beaches of Cape Vidal and Sodwana
Bay are reached along unsealed roads, but the untapped solitude
of Kosi Bay beach, Black Rock and Rocktail Bay must be accessed
in a 4x4 vehicle.
There is excellent sea fishing at Sodwana Bay, Cape Vidal and
St Lucia, with Sodwana Bay offering wonderful underwater magic
for both the experience4 and inexperienced scuba diver and snorkeller,
as well as excellent sport fishing.
Cape Vidal lies 35 kms north from St. Lucia village. The road
travels along the boundary of the St. Lucia Wetland Park and
from it one can glimpse reedbuck, kudu, buffalo and hippo. A
short detour at Mission Rocks offers views of both Lake St.
Lucia and the magnificent, rugged coastline. At Cape Vidal the
visitor may spot samango monkeys in the lush canopy of the forest,
follow kudu footprints along a pristine beach or sight larger
game on a wilderness trail.
In addition to a hotel and lodge, Sodwana and Cape Vidal have
self-catering chalets as well as camping facilities. St. Lucia
village is geared for
tourists and offers a wide range of accommodation as well as
shops and restaurants. The Crocodile Centre at St. Lucia is
well worth a visit.
Take safely to the waters on the Santa Lucia, a viewing boat
that provides one of the finest opportunities to view crocodiles
as well as hippo wallowing in the shallows. Kingfishers and
the majestic fish eagle are a glance away. |
21. UNIQUE ST. LUCIA. |
The
Greater St. Lucia Wetland Park, covering over a quarter of a
million hectares and the third largest reserve in South Africa,
is a jewel in the South African heritage crown.
A World Heritage Site, it includes the St. Lucia Game Reserve,
False Bay Park, St. Lucia Marine Reserve, Sodwana Bay National
Park, Maputaland Marine Reserve, Cape Vidal, Ozabeni, Mfabeni,
Tewate Wilderness Area and Mkuzi Game Reserve.
This stretch of the Zululand coast owes its name to the 16th
century Portuguese explorers, who named it Santa Lucia, after
their saint of light.
Five ecosystems, including seashore, dune forests, wetlands,
fresh water lakes, mangrove swamps, papyrus banks, lakes and
dry savannah are found in a unique protected area that extends
more than 80 kin, from Mapelane in the south to Sodwana Bay
in the north.
An amazing diversity of fauna and flora are found here, including
nearly 500 species of birds, more than 120 species of fresh
and estuarine fish, and a variety of
mammals ranging from reedbuck and buffalo to hippo and black
rhino.
Visitor camps on the western shores of the lake include False
Bay Park, with a rustic hutted camp, as well as sites for campers
and caravaners. Attractions include fishing, boating, game viewing,
bird watching, hiking and two self-guided walking trails. The
area is rich in ammonite fossils, dating back 90 million years.
Also within the Greater St. Lucia complex lie Charters Creek
and Fanies Island. Both of these idyllic spots have hutted accommodation
and are favourites for those who enjoy fishing or simply relaxing.
There are self-guided trails and the bird watching is excellent.
Lake St. Lucia is the central feature of the future World Heritage
Site. It is one of the largest estuaries in Africa, and acts
as a nursery and rich feeding ground for the countless fish,
prawns, crabs and other marine species which generally spawn
at sea. Home to some 800 hippo, 1 200 crocodiles and about 100
fish eagles, it is one of South Africa's premier fishing locations.
PST Lucia village, set in lush surroundings, is an enclave within
the park. Boasting a wide range of accommodation options, from
the luxurious to backpacker, it is a natural gateway to the
attractions of the Greater St. Lucia Wetland Park.
A particular attraction is the Crocodile Centre, which in addition
to local species features a breeding program for two endangered
African crocodiles - the dwarf and the long-snout. Some 15 km
north of the village is Mission Rocks, a popular site with braai
facilities.
About 30 km from the St. Lucia mouth is Cape Tidal. The final
approach to this popular coastal resort makes it a particular
pleasing drive - past Lake Bhangazi-South and a dune forest
sloping down to the sea.
Also on the northern coastline is Lake Sibaya - the largest
freshwater lake in South Africa.
One of the world's most remarkable wetland and marine reserves,
the Greater St. Lucia Wetland Park offers the nature-orientated
visitor a wide and fascinating array of activities and attractions
- from game viewing hides and scenic launch trips up the estuary
to fishing, scuba-diving, birdwatching and whale watching. |
|
22. Prehistoric Fish |
The
Greater St. Lucia Wetland Park has increased its value as a
World Heritage Site with the discovery of three prehistoric
Coelacanth fish in its marine reserve. The
Coelacanth was thought to be extinct until a live specimen was
caught in a trawler net in 1938 off the Chalumna
River Mouth off the Eastern Cape. Further specimens were later
found off the Comores Islands in 1952 and, more recently Indonesia
and Madagascar. |
|
23. TURTLE TREASURES |
A
high 1ight a stay on the Maputaland coast during December and
January is the opportunity to witness huge female leatherback
turtles (almost two metres long and weighing up to 900 kilograms)
emerging from the sea to lay their eggs at the base of the frontal
dunes. The ancestors of these magnificent creatures date back
some 200 million years and it is an unforgettable privilege
to stand beside a giant leatherback as she
performs this miracle of nature.
The hatching of the young turtles takes place some 60 days after
being laid, and in keeping with the miracle of nature the youngsters
all emerge simultaneously. From this moment the struggle
For life begins as they dig 40 cm to the surface before crawling
en mass
the 60 meters or so to the surf - where in turn they are likely
to become the prey of kingfish and other predators.
Life is harsh until the turtles are larger and the survival
rate is fewer than one in 500. |
|
24. MILITARY MEMORIES |
Recalling
bloody battles… visiting evocative landmarks
The tranquil hills and grasslands of Zululand carry many a famous
battle scar. The canvas of the 19th century was filled with
one historical drama after another as three forces pitted their
armies against each other - fighting for land and supremacy.
Between 1836 and 1852, Zulu warriors clashed with Boer settlers.
Some years later the might of the British military was hurled
against the Zulu nation during the Anglo-Zulu War of 1879, and
the independent Afrikaner movements twice took up arms against
the British Empire - first from 1880 to 1881 and then for three
years during the Anglo-Boer War (1899-1902).
The largest concentration of battle sites in South Africa are
to be found in northern KwaZulu-Natal Visited by military history
enthusiasts from around the world, the sites are visitor friendly
and linked by The Battlefields Route. Several of the key towns
on the Route are in Zululand, as are dozens of battlefields
and fortifications, museums, war graves and memorials.
The Zululand towns on the Battlefields Route are Eshowe, Melmoth,
Ulundi, Babanango, Vryheid and Paulpietersburg. Between them
they offer a fascinating array of military landmarks that capture
the atmosphere of a turbulent past.
The Route can be travelled as a self-drive adventure, and an
excellent guide-map is available from all local tourist information
offices. Alternately, join a tailor-made battlefield tour in
the company of a specialist guide. |
|
25. HISTORICAL HIGHLIGHTS |
The
earliest military engagements in the region began when King
Shaka set out to mould the Zulu nation. A number of skirmishes
and battles were fought against other tribes, displacing them
in a process that became known as the Mfecane, and Gqokli Hill
outside Ulundi is the site of one of these epic encounters.
The first of the Voortrekkers arrived in the land of the Zulu
in 1837. Hoping to settle in this
bountiful land, away from British rule, they began negotiations
with King Dingane. These came to an end at uMgungundlovu, when
a misunderstanding resulted in Piet Retief and his party being
killed. A series of battles between the Voortrekkers, seeking
retribution, and the Zulu nation ensued.
By the time the British sought to extend their control of Natal
in the 1870s, King Cetshwayo was in power. In 1878 the Zulu
king rejected a British ultimatum that threatened to limit his
power, and the first engagement of the Anglo-Zulu War took place
in January 1879, when General Lord Chelmsford launched an invasion
of Zululand. While the main force was routed at Isandlwana -
when some 25 000 Zulus overran the British camp and killed 1
300 of the 1 500 invading force - which led to the defense of
Rorke's Drift (where a record 11 Victoria Crosses were awarded
for a single engagement), the coastal column was attacked at
Nyezane and besieged at Eshowe. Further battles and skirmishes
occurred at Gingindlovu, Ntombe Drift, Hlobane Mountain and
Kambula, with the British finally regaining the upper hand at
the Battle of Ulundi on 4 July 1879.
Zululand was again a theatre of war when the Boers of the Zuid-Afrikaansche
Republiek took on the British Empire from 1899 to 1902 in the
Anglo-Boer War. Most of the fighting took place beyond Zululands
borders, but there are several significant battlefields in the
region. These include: Scheepersnek, Lancaster Hill, Blood River
Poort and Holkrans in the vicinity of Vryheid; and Fort Prospect
and Italeni near Babanango.
The historic military landmarks are sign-posted, and can be
explored as part of your Zululand experience. A visit to the
museums and interpretive centres on the Battlefields Route will
provide additional information and insights into the forces
that influenced these historical conflicts. |
26. PLACE OF BIRDS |
From
tree top to flood plain, mountain to grassland, Zululand is
a bonanza for birders.
Birding in Zululand is a heady experience. Some of the finest
birding spots in South Africa are located within a few hours'
drive from each other, and Zululand is a favorite haunt of both
local and international bird watchers. The juxtaposition of
so many diverse habitats - from bushveld and grassland to waterways
and seashore - offers a rare concentration of several hundred
species in one area.
Mkuzi Game Reserve rules the Zululand birding roost with its
range of habitats that include the Lebombo mountains, grassland
savannah, riverine forests and flood plain pans. Its bird count
is an incredible 430 species. Birding paths can be easily walked
with a guide, and there are comfortable hides overlooking numerous
pans and waterholes, as well as a self-guided walk through a
primeval fig forest. The mass take-off of a large flock of flamingos
or a busy hunting party of white pelicans is an unforgettable
experience.
Further north, several areas boast similar habitats and are
well known for the winter waterbirds that gather in large numbers
along its pans and waterways. Species recorded number up to
420, including occasional sightings of East African
subspecies at the southernmost limit of their migration. A waterside
watch could lead to that once in a lifetime sighting of the
rare Pels fishing owl or the green coucal, while time spent
in the sand forest hide might add the magnificent narina trogan,
seldom sighted Rudd's apalis or the flappet lark to your birding
list.
For waterbirds, Lake St. Lucia is one of the most important
breeding areas in the country.
The checklist for the greater St. Lucia area includes some 35
marine and seashore birds, 88 wetland birds and 212 terrestrial
birds - an indication of the incredible diversity found here.
Goliath herons and fish eagles are common along the estuary.
Large spoonbills forage in the shallows at False Bay while the
coastal forests along the high dunes are home to the rare Woodward's
batis, pinkthroated longclaw and African broadbill.
Climbing to the open grasslands and riverine bushveld of Ithala
Game Reserve and the rolling hills around Vryheid, we find a
different world of inland birds. Ithala has a checklist of 393
species, from the ostrich to the mannikin, and it includes threatened
species such as the bald ibis and the long-crested eagle.
Whether you're an experienced birder or an enthusiastic amateur,
Zululand is the ultimate place of birds. |
|
27. ZULULAND BIRDING ROUTE |
Situated
in southern Zululand, this popular birding Route meanders the
Babanango highlands, traverses the rolling hills of Melmoth,
drops down to the green, tranquil forests of Eshowe, continues
through the coastal belt at Mtunzini and Richards Bay, and culminates
in St. Lucia.
The entire Route encompasses 10 different habitat types, which
support some 400 bird species - more than half the total South
African species. Birders may start the Route at either end,
or select any combination of the destinations on the Route.
There are a number of rare birds to be found on the Route, including
the Woodward's barbet, which occurs in the Ongoye Forest. Other
species that draw birders to the area include Delegorgue's pigeon,
spotted thrush and green coucal.
Birding Day record counts achieved on the Zululand Birding Route
have been in excess of 260 species recorded in a 24 hour period.
Making this Route particularly popular are the welcoming accommodation
establishments in the region, ranging from traditional country
hotels to game lodges and welcoming bed and breakfast cottages.
In addition, numerous well informed and experienced birders
are available for advice on local species and the most favoured
habitats, or to act as guides in the various areas on the Route.
Northern KwaZulu-Natal has a wealth of birdlife and some 370
species have been recorded in the area. The region centres around
the historical town of Vryheid, which is an ideal stepping off
point for birders. |
|
28.
ZULULAND AT YOUR FEET |
Hiking
is a superb way to explore Zululand. The region is crisscrossed~with
trails, many of them in nature 2 reserves and game parks.
Before setting out, ascertain the distance, degree of difficulty
and the clothing and equipment required for the outing. Some
trails and hikes will require prior bookings, particularly those
that involve overnight stops.
A comprehensive guide to hiking trails in the province has been
published by Tourism KwaZulu-Natal/u-Nata4 and is available
free of charge from tourist information offices.
The coastal belt immediately north of the Tugela River in the
areas around Mandini and Mtunzini offers trails that meander
through the unspoilt coastal forests. These range from an easy
5 km trail along the banks of the Tugela to more demanding outings
through dune forests, and could include overnight options.
Maputaland, much of which is incorporated in the Greater St.
Lucia Wetland Park, and will soon be proclaimed a World Heritage
Site, offers a wide diversity of guided trails. Most
are of three or four days duration and include the popular St.
Lucia Wilderness Trail, Mkuzi Bushveld Trail and Umfolozi Wilderness
Trail.
There are a host of self-guided~ trails In Zululand, ranging
from the two
day Mkhaya Trail between Vryheid and Pongola to the day and
overnight Tafelberg Trail in the forests near Babanango; from
the three day Mziki Trail on the eastern shores of St. Lucia
to a two hour trail through the Dlinza Forest in Eshowe. In
the Paulpietersberg area there is the 10 km Dumbe Trail, while
in Vryheid the more energetic can tackle the two day Lancaster
hiking Trail.
Battlefield trails are becoming increasingly popular, and Zululand
offers hikers with an interest in military history several interesting
options. |
|
29. FABULOUS FISHING |
Zululand
has many waters, each as beautiful and compelling as the next.
Anglers would be forgiven for thinking they were in
paradise, for the lakes, rivers, dams and inviting Indian Ocean
teem with an abundance of marine life - and it's not surprising
that Zululand is one of South Africa's most popular fishing
destinations.
Fishing has a long history in Zululand. For generations, the
intricate network of fishing traps that decorate the main lake
near the mouth of Kosi Bay have been tended by local Tsonga
families. Woven from stems and branches cut from local trees,
the cunning design of the traps make them extremely effective
and ecologically friendly.
If you intend to take to the waters, the rock pools at the mouth
and along the pristine beach of Kosi Bay are a virtual aquarium
of brilliant sub-tropical fish set among exquisite reefs. For
the snorkeller, this underwater kaleidoscope is a dazzling magnet.
For more snorkelling adventure, as well
as scuba-diving and game fishing, the opportunities at Sodwana
Bay are exceptional. Zululand waters include the southernmost
coral reefs of the African coast. Underwater visitors are invited
to view a coral garden, swim alongside a ragged tooth or whale
shark, glimpse a giant manta ray or wonder at the aquatic grace
of a loggerhead turtle.
These waters are home to some 1 200 species of fish, and many
South Africans choose to hone their diving skills here. Facilities
and equipment can be hired for both the beginner and experienced
scuba-diver - as well as the angler seeking the thrill of deep
water game-fishing.
There's more good scuba diving and snorkeling at Cape Vidal
and Rocktail Bay, while the challenge of surf angling is possible
on whatever beach you find yourself, but a fishing licence is
required. Permits must also be obtained for the removal of crabs,
rock lobster and bait; as well as for spear fishing.
It's not only saltwater fishing that captivates visiting anglers:
inland waters such as Lake Sibaya, Lake Jozini (particularly
popular for tiger fishing) and the huge expanse of Lake St Lucia
are well-loved fishing spots. Grunter, kob, perch and shad may
be bagged, though daily numbers are limited. Fishing is excellent
at Fanies Island and Charters Creek and boats are available
for hire, while False Bay Park is another of those idyllic spots
where the eco-tourist can combine fishing with bird watching
and game viewing.
For the big game fisherman there is the deep blue. The waters
off the Zululand coast provide a spirited challenge for those
looking to add a sailfish or marlin to the trophy wall. |
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30.Credits. |
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Zululand. 
